The Scout got to check out the highly-anticipated reincarnation of La Fonda del Sol earlier this week at a press event, and the results were, well, somewhat mixed. To be honest, we were expecting a zoo when we showed up – and there’s nothing worse than going to a restaurant party and not getting to taste any of the food (because the kitchen can’t keep up with the hyper-aggressive guests snatching up all the mini-quiches off platters before the poor servers can make it three steps into the dining room). But we digress.

There was ample food and drink at this event, so we got to sample an assortment of tapas in the café area: octopus salad, boneless chicken wings, Manchego cheese croquettes and pork and veal meatballs. While some of the food missed the mark (overly salty tuna tacos), most of it was fairly tasty: the tortilla patata with aioli was straightforward and appropriately rustic; the kitchen was wise not to tamper with such a wonderfully simple, traditional dish. And those boneless chicken wings were tender and had plenty of flavor, thanks to a spicy topping that made for a perfectly lovely, mouth-tingling bite. It was enough of a tease that we’d definitely go back to sample the full menu, especially knowing that the talented Josh DeChellis is in charge of the kitchen.

While we weren’t expecting the décor to live up to Alexander Giarad’s 1961 La Fonda del Sol, we couldn’t help feeling that the space somehow suffered from its midtown location. Despite the beautiful, colorful photos of matadors adorning the walls (a nod to the restaurant’s Spanish roots) and the impressive all-glass wine cellar on display in the middle of the dining room, it felt a bit corporate. Something seemed to get lost in Adam Tihany’s translation; the space didn’t feel as modern as it strove to be. We wonder if the restaurant’s food and design will be able to attract the in-town, trend-setting crowds (Eater coverage notwithstanding) in order to make it a true dining destination. Only time will tell; but, for now, we’re curious to go back to get the full experience.